The start of Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2015-16 fashion week began Sunday, and we’ve put together a selection of our favorite looks from days 1 and 2.
In a Dior-ified floral greenhouse, lined with mauve AstroTurf, a delicate collection of flowy gowns, coats and capes graced the runway. Minimal makeup and natural tresses complimenting the effortlessly tailored clothing were harnessed with circular links, to the affect of body jewelry. The golden links were the highlight, and were lengthened to fit over knee-length dresses, but also shortened as mini crop tops, sans the sleeves.
Known more recently for Rihanna’s pink gown from the Grammy’s, Raf Simons of Giambattista Valli continued this season with more of his billowing gowns in colors of ivory and coral. In true Simons form, he integrated modern trends like the “dress-over-pants” style as seen on Kendall Jenner. Simons added a couture twist with bubbled tulle sitting mid-thigh over the ankle-cropped trousers. Accessories included long, shoulder-length teardrop earrings and dark black bug-eye sunglasses encrusted with large crystals. One of our favorite pieces was the reinvented hi-low top, spruced up to include a lengthy train at its end. Gowns were shortened from the front only to reveal ankle length trousers underneath. Simons created great volume this season with organza, tulle tutus, feather overcoats, and a silver metallic raffia dress.
A 19th century Parisian mansion was the setting of the Demi-Couture collection of Alberta Ferretti. The evening wear mimicked the geometric friezes and golden gilded moldings that filled the mansion, also the new offices of Ferretti. Silk jade greens, velvet flowers, burgundies, and Ferrettis’ signature bohemian silhouettes made for a collection that serves more than just for evening wear, but a spin on new ready-to-wear.
Only three years in, Ulyana Sergeenko has solidified her place in the haute couture world. Staying true to her native home Russia, influences can been seen again in this season’s collection. The embroidery from homegrown artisans and delicacy in detail is what sets Sergeenko apart from other fashion houses. Her dresses reimagined retro tailoring accompanied with accessories such as fur coats and caps. Handbags in the shape of ice cream cones and round spheres were complimentary to the lace, silk and velvets in Sergeenko’s familiar clothing color palette of greens, blues and neutrals. Sergeenko was influenced by boudoir-like pieces, creating more of a sensual collection.
The revival of Schiaparelli brought the debut of Bertrand Guyon. The collection showed influences from the past, like shoulder pads in blazers and 1940’s influenced tailoring. There were an assortment of patterns, colors, and styles that made the collection seem less cohesive, but one of the most grand nonetheless. Tweed, tartan, culottes and neckties all had a spot on the runway alongside brocaded fabrics, sheer gowns and pantsuits.
RALPH & RUSSO
Taking inspiration from 1960’s embroidery, Ralph & Russo played with more sensual shapes for their collection. There was an organic nature to the pieces, with silks, feathers and Chantilly lace floating across the runway in a lighter color palette than their previous collection last season.